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THE PROVERBIAL SILVER LINING
By Gordon Wilson – TCA 76-10233
There is an old adage which states that behind every dark
cloud is a silver lining. Between March 11 and March 20, a
truer axiom there never was. On the 11th of March I received
word from the Bay Area in Northern California that a friend
of some 58 years had passed away. Owing to the prohibitive
cost of “spur of the moment” airfares and the relative
proximity of the area, we opted to drive.
Following the funeral services and interment, we started making
preparations for the return trip to Fountain Hills. Status
quo was maintained quite well until a stop at the AAA office
in Bakersfield, CA. It was here that the silver lining emerged
in all its glory. It is hard to imagine that AAA, a nation-wide
entity, could have such a disparity in services. However, it
is my opinion that this Southern California AAA office in Bakersfield
is among the finest which I have yet to encounter. I suddenly
realized I was relatively close to that railroad engineering
marvel called the Tehachapi Loop.
Although I had been there before, it had been more or less “dumb
luck” which allowed me to find this place. Certainly
someone at an AAA office would be able to direct me there with
a positive degree of certainty. I was then provided maps beyond
my wildest expectation. Furthermore there was a telephone available
to use in order to secure lodging that evening in the railroad
town of Barstow, CA.
In addition to an abundance of railroad interests in that
area, the American icon highway, Route 66, just happens to
more or less parallel the Interstate Route upon which we were
traveling.
Call it good fortune, or good timing, whatever; this AAA office
was having a close-out promo on some major Route 66 book titles.
I bought several of them.
We arrived at the west end of the Tehachapi Loop in time to
witness an eastbound freight going through the tunnel. We passed
by one or two obvious viewing spots, but continued on the narrow
winding road to another overlook containing two Tehachapi Loop
Historical Markers, not to mention a panoramic view of the
entire vista. We had been at this site for only a very few
moments when another vehicle stopped and the occupants exited.
Immediately we struck up a lively conversation, which somehow
modulated from the 12” to the 1’ scale trains to
the model variety. It wasn’t until the magic word “York” popped
up that we realized that we were both members of the TCA.
The person with whom I was speaking was Paul Adams, TCA #98-47620,
of Akron, Ohio. He and his wife were visiting the area. During
the course of our conversation, another three freights passed
through, all of them westbound. Before bidding farewell, we
agreed to seek one another out at York and at the National
Convention in Pittsburgh.
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| Historic marker for Tehachapi Loop, a engineering marvel
where the last car of a train actually can go over the
top of the locomotive. |
3 Union Pacific diesels
pulling a mile long string of TTUX car. |
Note in the rear middle that the front is closing in
on the rear of the train. |
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| The engines have now passed under the und of the string
of TTUX. |
Enter another string of TTUX, headed by 3 BNSF power
units. |
. On its way around the south
side of the Tehachapi Loop—going
west to Mohave, Bakersfield and into LA. |
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A “four-bagger” combination
of BNSF and old ATSF diesels hauling a heavy mile long
mix of hoppers and I-Bar cars. |
The I-Bars and loaded gondolas, a
very heavy consist. |
Note the head-end group of 4 locos
coming up on the rear of this train, which has two pushers
to assist through the Tehachapi Loop. |
That evening in Barstow, we made our way to the best and most
famous restaurant in the area, the Idle Spurs, on Old Route
58. Aside from the moderate prices and wonderful food,
the place is a veritable museum of railroad and mining memorabilia.
Should you find yourself near here, don’t miss it.
Be sure to request Tiffany as your waitress. Her ESP, impeccable
service, and ready smile will make your meal even better
than
advertised.
Do NOT, however, order dessert here. Get back on I-15 North
for 7 miles to a dot on the map called Yermo. Exit onto Ghost
Town Road, and Peggy Sue’s Diner will be one block south
of the exit. Follow the signs to Peggy Sue’s, a ’50’s
style diner and pizzeria. Everything about the place will transport
you back in time at least 50 years. Memorabilia, autographed
photos, jukebox tunes should whet your appetite for such things
as pies, giant sundaes, or a Carmen Miranda banana split. (You
might wish to share this “monster”) Entry into
this 50 year old diner is gained by walking through a giant
replica Wurlitzer jukebox. “Oh,oh,oh, Peggy Sue,” sings
Buddy Holly.
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| A bit of Railroad memorabilia in the Idle Spurs steakhouse
in Barstow, CA. |
For dessert, go to Peggy
Sue’s, a true 50’s
relic. |
You enter Peggy Sue’s
through a replica Wurlitzer Juke Box. |
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“Betty Boop” greets
you upon entering. |
A tuxedoed butler urges you to grab your own table. |
James Dean lives! |
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| “The Duke” guides
one to the Men’s Room! |
Elvis entertains non-stop! |
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All of this brought us to the final leg of our trip back home
to Fountain Hills, AZ. We now continued to parallel both Route
66 and the mainline of the BNSF. There may be other equally
good places in the US to watch trains – however, I simply
cannot fathom a better place. Mile long east and west bound
consists of every imaginable type happen along at roughly 10
minute intervals. Some are so long and heavy as to have the
need for pusher locomotives. It is extremely easy to exit I-40
and access a portion of the old Route 66 for a scenic spot
from which to photograph the plethora of passing trains. Route
66 goes nearly continuously from the Arizona-California border
to Flagstaff. Seligman, which coincidentally is more or less
on the western end of the Grand Canyon, is one of my particular
favorite spots. The Copper Cart is a 50 year old restaurant
located just a few yards north of the Seligman Train Depot.
Every train between Flagstaff, AZ and Barstow, CA will pass
by this site. Scattered throughout Seligman are a variety of “tourist
trap” stores jam-packed with Route 66 “instant
antiques.” There are, however, some legitimate throw-backs
to the days of Route 66. Vintage Edsels, Fords, Chevys, Studebakers,
and even a Route 66 Museum dot the landscape. Should you opt
to stay on Route 66 going east from Seligman toward Williams,
you will find yourself within a few feet of the BNSF mainline.
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A railroad inspection truck. |
Note the RR wheels, for use on the
tracks. |
A BNSF freight approaching Seligman,
AZ Depot, a block south of Old Route 66. |
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A reminder to the local youths to
tread lightly while on RR property. |
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Seligman depot sign. |
Seligman Station—-the west-bound
freight of BNSF waits for east-bound UP freight to pass. |
A ’57 Chevy sits outside
a Route 66 Museum in Seligman, AZ. |
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The ’57 T-Bird still
in working order. |
A ’54 Dodge? Looks a lot like
my ’53 Plymouth. |
The Ford Motor Company mistake—a ’57
Edsel. |
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The Arizona heat has gotten
to these erstwhile mechanics—or maybe it was the “moonshine.” |
A rare car, but does anyone
care? A ’57 Edsel station wagon. |
Heading East out of Seligman along
Route 66. |
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Same train near Ash Fork,
AZ—photo
taken from a Route 66 bridge. |
This long freight needed
some pushers as it made its’ way toward Flagstaff. |
This is where we parted company.
The rails went East—Route 66 went South. |
Finally, a few miles further east will bring you to the railroad
renaissance town of Williams. Yes, Route 66 runs smack through
the center of town, but Williams’s main claim to fame
these days is that it is the “hometown” of the
Grand Canyon Railway. Sixteen years ago, when this now thriving
business re-started following its demise in the 1950’s,
it was literally operating on a shoestring. We were fortunate
enough to have been among its passengers on its first full
weekend of operation in 1988. A Santa Fe diesel was hired to
follow at a discreet distance, just in case the steam locomotive
pulling the train on which we were riding broke down. That
is how unsure they were about its operation. Today that is
not an issue. To quote an old TV cigarette advertisement, “You’ve
come a long way, Baby!”
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At the Williams, AZ depot |
“’Ole # 18” waiting
for the next jaunt into the Grand Canyon some 60 miles
North. |
#18’s tender is a
moving billboard to advertise this historic railway. |
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Loco # 20 waits on a siding
for its’ next trip. |
A newly renovated Grand Canyon liner
diner. |
An old REA baggage cart filled with
luggage awaiting transfer to a Canyon bound trip. |
That concludes the silver lining of the dark foreboding cloud.
We headed the car south and two hours later were safe and sound
back home again in Fountain Hills, AZ, home to the tallest
Water Fountain in the World. It doesn’t bring my friend
back, but it did make the two-day journey home a whole lot
easier to bear.
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